Tuesday, 8 December 2015

Shameless and Uninhibited 2

Shameless and Uninhibited: One step after another...the government is bulldozing on with the commitment to destroy land and life...try to read what Harish Vasudevan points at...(10 October 2015, Facebook)


മാത്രുഭൂമിയുടെ ഇന്നത്തെ പ്രധാന വാർത്ത കണ്ട്‌ ഡോ.വി.എസ്‌ വിജയൻ വിളിച്ചു. "നീർത്തടങ്ങൾ ജനപങ്കാളിത്തത്തോടെ സംരക്ഷിക്കുന്നതിനായി ഉറക്കം കളഞ്ഞ്‌ ഇന്നലെ രാത്രിയിരുന്ന് ഒരു പ്രോജക്റ്റ്‌ തയ്യാറാക്കുകയായിരുന്നു. രാവിലെ പത്രം കണ്ട്‌ ഞാൻ തളർന്നുപോയി. ഉടനേ തന്നേ എന്തെങ്കിലും നമുക്ക്‌ ചെയ്യണ്ടേ ഹരീഷേ" എന്നു ചോദിച്ചു. കേരളാ പരിസ്ഥിതി ഐക്യ വേദിയുടെ പേരിൽ ഒരു പ്രതിഷേധക്കുറിപ്പും, ഒരു പരാതിയും അയയ്ക്കണം എന്ന് ഡോ.വിജയൻ പറഞ്ഞു. നീണ്ട 30 വർഷത്തെ ഗവേഷണ ജീവിതത്തിൽ ഏറ്റവും കൂടുതൽ കാലം നീർത്തടങ്ങളെ സംരക്ഷിക്കാനും അത്‌ മനുഷ്യർക്കുണ്ടാക്കുന്ന പ്രയോജനങ്ങൾ പ്രചരിപ്പിക്കാനും ശ്രമിച്ച, സെയിലന്റ്‌വാലിയെ സംരക്ഷിക്കുന്നതിൽ നിർണ്ണായക പങ്കുവഹിച്ച ആ വലിയ മനുഷ്യൻ, ഇതു പറയുമ്പോൾ അദ്ദേഹത്തിന്റെ തൊണ്ടയിടറി.
"മാഷേ, നമുക്ക്‌ മാത്രം ഇത്‌ തോന്നിയാൽ മതിയോ, ഈ നാട്ടിലെ ബഹുഭൂരിപക്ഷത്തിനും ഈ വാർത്ത കണ്ട്‌ അസ്വസ്ഥതയും തോന്നുന്നില്ലെങ്കിൽ, മാഷെന്തിനു ഈ വയസു കാലത്ത്‌ വിഷമിക്കണം? ജനാധിപത്യം തൊട്ടു തീണ്ടിയിട്ടില്ലാത്ത ഒരു സർക്കാരാണിത്‌. ഇത്തരമൊരു നിർണ്ണായക തീരുമാനം കോൺഗ്രസ്‌ പാർലമെന്ററി പാർട്ടി യോഗത്തിലോ, മുന്നണിയിലോ, നിയമസഭയിൽപ്പോലുമോ ചർച്ച ചെയ്തിട്ടില്ല. നേരത്തേ നടത്തിയ ചർച്ചകളിൽ യു.ഡി.എഫ്‌ ഉപസമിതി റിപ്പോർട്ട്‌ തന്നെ വയലുകൾ സംരക്ഷിക്കണമെന്നാണ്‌. അതിനുപോലും പുല്ലുവില കൊടുക്കുന്ന ഉമ്മൻചാണ്ടിയെപ്പോലെയുള്ള ഒരു ജനാധിപത്യവിരുദ്ധൻ പരിസ്ഥിതി ഐക്യവേദിയുടെ കത്തിനു കടലാസിന്റെ വിലപോലും നൽകില്ല. കെ.പി.സി.സി പ്രസിഡന്റായ സുധീരൻ എഴുതുന്ന കത്തുകളിടാൻ പ്രത്യേകം ചവറ്റുകുട്ട തന്നെയുണ്ടത്രേ മുഖ്യമന്ത്രിയുടെ ഓഫീസിൽ.
അതുകൊണ്ട്‌, നമുക്കൊരു കാര്യം ചെയ്യാം. ഈ നിയമം ഇങ്ങനെ ഇഞ്ചിഞ്ചായി കൊല്ലാതെ, മൊത്തത്തിൽ എടുത്തുകളയാൻ ഒരു ഭീമഹരജി ഗവർണ്ണർക്ക്‌ കൊടുക്കാം. വികസനത്തിനു കോട്ടമുണ്ടാക്കുന്ന നെൽവയൽ നീർത്തട സംരക്ഷണ നിയമം പൂർണ്ണമായി പിൻവലിക്കുക. പറ്റുമെങ്കിൽ, വന സംരക്ഷണ നിയമവും പിൻവലിക്കാൻ ആവശ്യപ്പെടുക. ഉടമസ്ഥർ അവർക്കിഷ്ടമുള്ളതുപോലെ നിലം കൃഷി ചെയ്യുകയോ നികത്തി വികസനം കൊണ്ടുവരികയോ ചെയ്യട്ടെ. ഒരു 3 വർഷത്തിനുള്ളിൽ കൃഷിവകുപ്പ്‌ നമുക്ക്‌ പിരിച്ചുവിടാം. അവരെ വികസന വകുപ്പാക്കി പുനർ നാമകരണം ചെയ്യാം. അങ്ങനെയൊരു ഹരജി തയ്യാറാക്കുന്നെങ്കിൽ വിജയൻ സാർ പറയൂ, ഞാൻ ആദ്യം ഒപ്പിടാം.
നാട്ടുകാർ കുടിവെള്ളം കിട്ടാതെ നേട്ടോട്ടമോടി പഠിക്കട്ടെ മാഷേ, അവരത്‌ അർഹിക്കുന്നു. "
അദ്ദേഹം മൗനമായി എല്ലാം കേട്ടു. വിയോജിച്ചു. "ഇല്ലാ, ഞാൻ എന്നെക്കൊണ്ടാവുന്നത്‌ ചെയ്യും. സെയിലന്റ്‌വാലിക്കാലത്ത്‌ ഇതിലും വലിയ പ്രതിസന്ധികൾ ഞാൻ അനുഭവിച്ചിട്ടുണ്ട്‌. ഈ പാതകം കണ്ടുകൊണ്ടിരിക്കാനാകില്ല. ഈ തീരുമാനത്തിന്റെ സാമ്പത്തിക അപകടങ്ങളും വികസന അപകടങ്ങളും ചൂണ്ടിക്കാട്ടി ഞാൻ മുഖ്യമന്ത്രിക്കൊരു കത്തെഴുതാൻ പോകുകയാണ്‌." മാഷ്‌ ഫോൺ വെച്ചു.
വിജയൻ സാറിനെ ദൈവം രക്ഷിക്കട്ടെ.

Shameless and Uninhibited...



Media with wide circulations put the govt. of Kerala assurances to the centre’s developmentalist procedures on track (with characteristic branding- like the Weiden Kennedy (?) generated lion-logo), as removing ‘legal hassles’ (നിയമകുരുക്കുകൾ അഴിക്കുക). Let’s think into what some of these ‘hassles’ are:

Quarries have been wreaking havoc across midlands in Kerala. Quarrying for building lobbies (it will be too stupid or naïve to think all this is done for the homeless) - red stone-lateritic formations-granite- have been transforming the whole morphologies of places and the water depletions and dust pollutions have already started to affect all forms of life. The resistances by people have been portrayed by the chief secretary’s office and planning offices in the state as one such ‘hassle’.

In the name of Vallarpadam Transshipment rhetoric, the non-viability of which-even from the profit maker’s point of view- the corporate evaluators have been talking about is now in place. The inhabitants in Moolampilly or several other places have never in history been in the developmentalist snapshots. The whole drama after all is much less about any transshipments (something which Colombo does at one eight cost!) and more about releasing more wetlands for real estate. And roadblock in letting such gross violations continue is another ‘hassle’.

Illegal high rises populate every nook and cranny of the state. Take a look at the gross CRZ violations in Ernakulam Marine drive. Not even a small breeze can soothe people because of the huge concrete walls made by builders. The Mangalavanam mangroves too (the others as we talk are being burned down with kerosene) will be gone in no time. Prestige DLF or LuLu after all is above law. They can even kill the Ramsar protected Vembanad, and generate profit. The objections posed by the fire force off late (the transfers of officials) and the delays in land registrations…all of these are also ‘hassles’ (ഈ നൂലാമാലകൾക്ക് നിയമഭേദഗതിയിലൂടെ പരിഹാരം കാണും).

There are bigger ‘hassles’ that the media and authorities will put forward to us in coming days: The wetlands act, the forest acts, the social impact assessments, labour laws…all of these have to be torn down in hurry. The ratings have to go up, we are being told. For whom does the democratically elected office talk? What are the forces and pressures that steer the desperation in employing advertisers, rating agencies, and international PR agencies to push forward such campaigns?

Sunday, 28 June 2015

Gimmicks for People, Welfare for the Select:






Very often indexes of economic performance are presented as evidence of people's welfare by state orders. The gross domestic product (GDP) has been a favourite concept. The figures were often quoted and used by the officialdom as proof of welfare post 1990s. So when the GDP moved from 7 to 8 to 9, people are supposed to feel good. More specialized indexes like the Baseline Profitability Index, of which I talk about, are available for the present ruling establishment in India. I thought it is worthwhile putting such figures where they really belong and read them for what they really indicate.

Couple this with some of the biggest efforts to manage public relations (PR) one gets the huge scale of manufactured illusion people must live through. APCO worldwide for instance, with a record of multi-billion dollar lobbying in United States, promotion of Zionist conservative networks, with clientele of oligarchs like Mikhail Khodorkovsky, with track record of promoting climate-change denialists, as well as branding of Gujarat post riots; have got involved in the PR activities for Indian central government. There is also tailor made work to promote the present prime minister.

Increasingly the governmental apparatus feels a need to wield shields of PR stunts, to ward off any serious doubt. News and media get overwhelmed by the kudos they churn out for upcoming projects and restructurings. It is also in such contexts that I feel the need to try and put in an effort to understand such gimmicks for what they are.


The following perspective comes in the wake of immense campaigning done for the Atal Mission for Rejuvenation and Urban Transformation (AMRUT) programme for urban infrastructure and the smart cities programme as envisaged by the central government in India. Gamuts of corporate developmental indexes are portrayed as proofs of and logic for the social validity of the aforesaid state programmes. Recently, as per major print news, India, way down at 6th on Baseline Profitability Index is now the topper. I do not have the illusion that people immediately get excited about such number games as much as when the first gimmicks of GDP growth were advertised as greater human success. Even then it is interesting to place such ecstatic news items under lens and enquire into these oft appearing figures.

Before anyone contemplates becoming loyal believers of the make in India lion deities, it will be worthwhile thinking a bit into what many of the parameters of achievements are about. This is a good way of putting them where they belong. This is also a way of preventing imaginations take wings of wax and flying to the sun. Another way is to get to the ground and see what the welfarist translations of such figure games are. The former is what I will try out with the baseline profitability score the state has 'achieved' as per news. What does it mean when a score of the kind created by an economist and Foreign Policy commentator Daniel Altman goes positive? And also how a state hell bent on following a certain trajectory can use such figures, as the GDPs were once used, to manufacture euphoria and hero worships.

Here Daniel Altman who created the index essentially sees how much value an asset has added on once an investment is made, say in India. The index compares how the local policies of the state and the local conditions would affect the same investment in other places. It also asks how the principal and the return on investment will change as a factor of the place where investments are made. This is the gist. 
                                  
Thus, at present, on this comparative scale, "India is the place to start". No doubt that Daniel Altman knows 'his economics' well; he uses the technique for soccer league ratings, global economics, and for the baseline index. For instance one of his favourite ways is to assess the 'worth' of players for billion dollar club markets or assessment of the relative quality of various soccer leagues using average age. He likes his comparative strategy. The same applies for comparing investor scenes. He must also be a good proponent of these perspectives where he teaches.

Let’s congratulate the economist, the holy investors and the promoting state structure in India and go on to see what all of these implies for us, and the much less fortunate millions who inhabit our places.

Few years back, during the term of the last government, what happened were sets of catastrophes as a function of global credit impacts. There were unheard scales of corporate corruption as well. The crisis of debt markets, the packaging and reselling of bad debts incurred by financial institutions, was felt everywhere, in varying scales. The human impact was too much. Millions lost jobs across the world. This is how fictitious capital (trillions) and volatile finance has clear material impacts that can only go from bad to worse

Remittance economies for instance (many in the Americas and a lot more like in Asia where service sector is predominant) suffered in characteristic ways. If this was actual starvations in places like Haiti dependent on US remittances, in places like ours, the worst was still warded a lot off.  This is because the system was yet to be made totally subject to the whims and fancies of investors and investor capital. Even then we managed to set free those responsible for the death of thousands in Bhopal. We even promised the Dow chemicals safe spaces of future investment.

In the last few decades with the neoliberal turn people witness increasing crisis. But the crisis of investors gets subsequently solved off locally at human costs. The Kingfishers can fly their jets and the Monsantos can keep terminating; only the farmers need to commit suicide.



The new dynamics of urbanization for instance is one of the ways in which crisis gets solved like this. Thus land and property markets have to be favourable to investors. Most of the developments like these are debt financed. But that is just fine! It is a well known truism that capitalist system is ridden with crisis. Crisis is necessary for capitalist systems survival. So there are problems all the time and there are solutions that in turn create a new problem- survival through crisis. Sorry, we are not talking about humanitarian crisis. That is a essential component for any kind of capitalist crisis fixation. The political power centres, once people put them in place through democratic elections,  have been taking action to get the system ready more in favour of the upcoming crisis.

The basic requirement of the aforesaid system is that it requires growth, no matter what. Never mistake growth for welfare. This is just the old GDP story; post Manmohanomic-reforms, of profit generation in new garb. So there is a need to have spaces of competitive ease across the world. And a place like India that both becomes conducive and holds perhaps the biggest market of consumers (on or off credit), that means jackpot (for capitalists, for investors...).

The new game makers and planners will now tell us that a certain rate of growth is acceptable and another rate is less so etc. Do not ask who decides these acceptability levels. Not us for sure! Instead this is the puppet show by a class that has to find security for the increasing amount of money that is entrusted in different state spaces. The too much money has to get invested to generate profits. Banks, for instance, over these years have become lenders (there is hardly an interest for your savings. Imagine one of those new generation loan monger banks).

The surplus that does not find its way out is an impending problem in a capitalist order. So games are to be played, new spaces are to be generated. Wars are one of the favourite games of superpowers and a kind with catastrophic human consequences. Another method is the generation of safe spaces for profit generation. The special economic zones and urban reordering became the state methods post 2000. But things were not quite professionally managed resulting in some of the state repressions coming out too much in open. The usual gimmicks of job generation (after depriving generations of natural and social infrastructure) did not quite work. People began to read about the people from Niyamgiri threatened by bauxite miners, the Reddy brothers mining activities, Vedanta, and many others across India. Millions who voted last time thought they voted for change. 

 
And yes, there is a difference now. Things are much more professionally managed. So there is a clamp down on organizations that report on human rights issues. There is a freeze on their funds. Better spaces for the circulation and generation of profit are getting created through smart cities: not one or two but hundreds on them, through private partnerships. If one reads the clauses and provisions, it becomes too clear for whom are these cities getting ready. There are more gimmicks that resonate nationalism like the make in India's which gets coupled with labour law changes. Labour has to be servile and ready to make things cheap. Labour must not stand in the way of profit. Land laws have to be made more favourable to any ambani or adani (and more of the class...) who has a plan! So get rid of the social impact assessments and environmental laws that stand in the way. Restructure the green tribunals. Do all of these and more and then go across the world and market the vibrant spaces. A better way is to put the patriotic tag and ideas like nationalism (Put some desi words in, to act a swadesi drama). Get in a bit more of media coverage and try to make people good about all of this.

Get such an order in and then economists like Altman will score up the country in the index. And if the state manages either to suppress and keep in place all the human costs incurred during growth, or account for them as collateral damages, they keep winning the game over people.


Saturday, 14 March 2015

Dumbing down the Social



We seem to be living in times when governments are in a hurry to carry out programmes of one kind of the other, to the extent of caring ever less about what might amorphously be termed social. The social in an electoral-representative democracy like India takes the shape of ‘electorate’ during elections. The mandate the respective government gains, subsequently carve what becomes everyday or even the future, depending upon the impact of issue at hand. In an overtly and covertly centrist system, the respective central governments off late have taken the ‘social’ for a ride. They, for practical ease read ‘electorate’ as that large and complicated body of ‘social’. Playing the cards through ordinances and urgency clauses, especially in questions like land legislations and natural resources, they compel one to interrogate what such urgencies imply.




[Cartoon Source:  www.polyp.org.uk]


Governments have been in happy wedlock with Land Acquisition Act of 1894, brought in place by the colonial government, primarily for better resource extractions from a population which they perceived as subjugated. The post colonial structures of power, evidently did not quite find such a provision detrimental to the programme of nation building; in fact the act gave legitimation to millions of evictions and migrations. The 90s phase brought in sea changes in the existing developmentalist regime and pegged ever more resources and populations to whims and fancies of markets. The economic reform phase, was about the guarantees the state provided to private capital, at the cost of farmer suicides, and resource transfers. 

The more right wing establishments, predecessors of the present one, that came in through communal polarizations, and disillusionment with existing systems with nothing else to choose from, brought with them fancy names like ‘swadeshi’. This had nothing to do with the politically charged and socially emancipatory mode espoused by Gandhi. In fact this was precisely the opposite- the more they used swadeshi and saskritic names, the more happened by way of disinvestments and throwing away of commons at market friendly rates in stock trade. 

In the larger situation post 2000, states became more of facilitators and promoters, much like a remote controlled corporate CEO. The already dwindling public responsibility has now been completely shed off and it is here that we can place current land legislations. The critiques on the present proposal often take the act of 2013 as a benchmark. But the 2013 one too was no angel, though there were some apologies in terms of consultations that have to be done with local governments or more elaborate reading of ‘affected parties’. Then there were clauses like ‘Fairness’ and ‘Compensation’, in fact violent terminologies that calculate compensation in monetary terms. What is the momentary rupee-value in terms of the individual concerned? The current ordinance does not even leave space for such apologies. The minister who read the budget has comprehensively declared that the consent clauses will be removed for many more sectors. Accordingly sections will be amended (Section 10(A) of the Act for instance) to expand sectors where assessment and consent will not be required. 

From here onwards government or private individuals/companies will no longer need mandatory 80% consent for land acquisition in certain sectors. Not only consent, the Social Impact Assessment (SIA) too could be done away with. It does not stop here…may be one could even throw away Environmental Impact Assessments! Why not? Otherwise how can these governments fulfill the faiths and oaths of allegiance to private capital? Yes, it adds that people need not worry because they will still make available rehabilitation and resettlement packages…no need for social impact assessments or environment impact assessments.
The new plan goes on to explain that the earlier system had a problematic clause with respect to how many people will be impacted. Thus not only the owner, but also those who are dependent on the land needed to be compensated. The government thinks that this is too elaborate and wide a reading of ‘social’ vis-à-vis impact. So the new ordinance ensures that only land owners will be compensated. Throw the rest out- after all we are facilitators not providers. And thus the system proves that the idea of democracy could be strategically deployed to define social as per need. 

There are many other issues like the much hyped about liquidation of planning commission (Yojana Ayog) as a radical gesture of new age. What many do not realize is that all those welfarist assumptions of planning had already gone out in the drain after 90s. Only a shell called planning commission was in place by 2000s. NITI Ayog is nothing too new on that count and carries on more loyally what the defunct commission has been on with since 90s. But yes, the name was changed. So less planning and provision for people, and more enabling conditions for profit. Don’t ask what kind of profit, whose profit, or growth of who…we will be told that it will all trickle down for the millions of us to lick from. 

Then problematic arrangements like aadhaar that goes hand in glove with entities with no people’s mandate like certain companies. Such programmes that never secured statutory approval, still goes on. They promise ‘security’ to people who will be increasingly depraved of land and resources! Now the momentary electorate or the more real social body has to stand up and believe in the patriarch called government (of the day). It probably helps to keep the following facts in mind: the Supreme courts interim order in September 2013 that no public services can be denied to public due to the lack of such unparliamentarily impositions- that in 2014 March the court restrained the central government and the Unique Identification Authority of India from sharing data with third parties, without the permission of the card-holders. According to the court the third parties could be government or private!---Don’t worry about Nandan Nilekani or any such names…believe in these names as the norm of the day suggests.

Basically there has been not much of a break in the continuum of actions post 2000 whereby governments by way of their actions have become increasingly at liberty to define the idea of social. With no scope for public referendums in view, even in matters of gross human rights concern, after elections anything goes. The period has also brought in new challenges to the idea of democracy. Democracy is not an easy process. It has to be a rooted and takes effect after successful overthrow of antisocial provisions of feudalism or religious fundamentalisms, especially with respect to determining the everyday of public. The new phase may be bringing in governments who are facilitators of comprador orders that ensures that things get done fast and furious for the very few at the expense of millions. They have to also invest a lot to make public believe otherwise once they cast their vote. Remember the motorbike add- “Fill it, shut it, forget it”. Add with this some pre-democratic ingredients like patriarchic values, hero worship, fatwas on food, and religious intrusions into civil life, we get a pastiche of present power structure, ever less social, ever less civil, ever less democratic.

Thursday, 16 October 2014

Snapshots from a small trek with friends from Kerala (Bergen 2011)

[A lake-small water falls-spruce and pine-winding roads-with some barbeque and small talks to go with-we heard from folks that the spruce and pine trees that were all around were introduced into these once over grazed hillocks-a reminder that people and hills have always been in dialogue-
walks like these were never far away from where we lived-Bergen was a town where nature was never too far]







Monday, 26 August 2013

A Post-Defence Dip in Amsterdam and the Mails that Followed (27-28 May 2013)




2013 May 27
Dear All

I am using the net service at the hotel. I could not get the tele-cards as the shops were closed on Sunday and with the mobile the network was not coming on.

So I am here. No idea as to what to do today. May be I will just walk around. It was touch getting guidance from reception this night as the bar marijuana and music was too loud in the lobby!

May be tomorrow I could do some sightseeing. Earlier in the flight I had a good conversation with a lawyer from Hamburg who was on the way to Holland, the legal centre of Europe. He told me that Amsterdam is no Dutch anymore. It has some good things if one knows where to be in.


Otherwise the grass has dominated the life. When it became the only thing in town, people moved out.

I will try to call tomorrow.

But I am fine here.

Will take it easy and probably just do the situationists derive!!


Ummma
Mon Maathu Appa Chaacha
2013 May 27
Appa Amma Srijakutta Molootty Tottappa
                                                                                   

Post Breakfast, and after a good one at that, I was confused whether to join one of the many walking tours or to explore the place myself. The little time I had had not given me the confidence to do that myself. But after some moments of contemplation that is what I exactly did. The only plan for the forenoon was visiting Anne Frank Museum and after noon perhaps go to the relocated Van Gogh Museum (from what I understood).

The good maps that I always find everywhere in Europe as well as the all pervasive street names helped me. But for Holland the street names did not stay put in mind with their not only phlegmatic pronunciations but also the same kind of spellings! The many straats, pliens...groots...toosts...Well I finally got out and traced the Damrat street towards the relatively broad Rodstraats. I read somewhere that the street widenings of urban reforms started taking place here as well but there was opposition to it at points, so many alleys that hugged the canals and medium streets remained. So I did not find the huge Parisian streets in here.


Rodstraat went into few unnameable (sorry it was difficult) alleys and reached where Anne Frank once lived and once had to Hide. The crowd that were queuing up there let me down big time, the person at the boar tour centre told me that perhaps six o clock or earlier in the morn could help. I changed my plans. But I had so many questions what a figure like Anne rank or the 'Jewish question’ connotes for large number of people from Europe. How they place it when they negotiate their everyday and perhaps flock in umbers beyond touristic intensions around the facade to a once tragic and grey zone.

The canals along with the bicycles and Hash had to be chosen from. I chose the former. I got into one of the boats and started the cruise flanked on both sides by houses once built on wooden piles that went in deep. But the salt water did take its toll. Concrete replaced wood as did bricks in the case of building material towards the nineteenth century. All the canals fanned out and networked the city in an amazing way and fed into the lake which here is called an IJ (pronounced eye). The canals were also about defence, but for Amsterdam the defence was also from the sea...majority of the land lay two meters below sea and points event went as much down as thirty...scary stuff if one thinks into it. But the canals did a lot of that trick. Transport dominated the functionalities later. The canals were chequered according to the class character. There were houses with larger floor space once (and even now) occupied by the wealthy merchants.


We passed the only natural fresh water body in the whole region called Amstel. Damming the Amstel becomes Amstell...dammme and thus Amsterdam. The earlier references are from 1200s and relate to some tax exemptions being given to the making of such a dam.

We saw some remnants of walls at points now crowned by later additions of spires. The defensive functions during Napoleonic and Engish attacks get symbolically subsumed. The Dutch as could be gathered just from these canals are traders all along and during the golden age (these ages are the curse in world histories...the reality is that of large processes) of the 17th century there were myriad migrations Flemish, Huguenots, and Sephardic Jews (like Kochi the Helleguas came here as well from Spain....got asylum). Then post world war two and some decades further there was the second major migration from Suriname (Hindus thus become a major religious segment), and Indonesians from ex Dutch east India. Then the workers from Morocco and Turkey....the Netherlands is less than 50 percent of Dutch parentage ethnically speaking. The planological (from what I heard) reorganisation saw new suburbs springing up thanks to out-migration of Dutch.

We passed some music halls, a marine research centre shaped like a ship, and the port to the other side of the Centraal train station once built on 8000 girdles in the shape of cabins. It required a lot of architectural ingenuity to keep this sub-pelagic place to stay live! One of the announcements said that even the fish tenuously divide their space in the canal with the floor space reserved for the salt water ones and the top layer for the fresh water ones.

The boat trip ended by 12:00ish. I walked towards where I though Van Gough was being exhibited after the closing of the original site for renovation. But my reading was wrong. This was a digital presentation of his works. The original on was now functional and was a bit away. Back of my mind I knew art was not in the list of liking at least this time. But beer was and Heineken's holy birth was some kilometres away.

I did not take any metro. I walked past the Roikin street to Amstel street (all has Dutchier names). I walked back part of this way to take the right street which after some minutes took me past the final bridge to Heineken Brewery...impressive structure when one comes down the curve of the canal bridge.

Heineken filled the rest of the day, spiritually as well as temporally. The brewery with everything explained, ending with a virtual tour that makes one feel as in the cauldrons of distillations hop addition and fermentation, with water and heat adding on to the feel...I became a beer myself end of the tour. Towards the end there are lessons of how to feel and taste beer. Then there is a lot of beer. Passing through the nuanced stages of beer making (also tasking the mid-stages of the process); I have come to respect more the invention. After the brewery we got into a Heineken boat with a lively youngster guiding us further. The Heineken part of the day I will rather try ad describe with photos when we talk in person. It is difficult to write.


I had a nap at Flying Pigs till about 5:00. There is no plan as of now to revisit Anne Frank.

Will try to write.


Ummmmmmmmmmmmma

Mon Maathu Chaacha Apppa
2013 May 28
Appa Amma Srijakutta Mole Totappa

Appe happy that you liked it.

This time I was all confused as to how to move around. But somehow this came off, thanks to some energy about the city, which does not have the same effect as Barcelona or the warmth of Athens. But I would say Amsterdam was the right place for a small dip.

Hash, Canals, Bicycles, and Red-light, I thought would sum up the city. But that is not all. On the other hand there is another side to the city precisely because of these highlights. There is a continuous plate tectonics of life, with those who are in it ‘and those who feel out of it'. The lawyer I met in the flight belongs to the latter. But then there is large spectrum that is part of the games Amsterdam puts forward.


There is an air of permissiveness, not least with sex and dope, on the one hand but this doesn't seem so near the bourse streets and stock exchange...not around Zuidaas, the new finance centres. There are different levels in which the economy as well as the life runs. I have seen heritage hearts in most European cities and finance and capitalist quarters that has suffocating homogeneity. In Amsterdam the leftovers of its commercial past itself becomes the dynamic heritage that gets smoked away every day.

One hundred and ninety six ethnicities/nationalities are citizens here. The number of languages that one hears in the streets, even without the tourists, could be mind boggling. Perhaps a holy communitas could be formed out of this motley mix of people, histories, bicycles, or economies; only in hash.


I might check out by 10:30 tomorrow. I have to be at airport by 11:45. I am sure I will get the hang of the excess called Amsterdam when I get down at Nordic moderations of Bergen.

Will talk more

Ummmmmas

Mon Maaathu Chaacha Apppa