Ellavarkum (Chakkaravaave ninne pratyekam)
Abdul Karim Gaddil, as he introduced himself to be, started to drive me in his
taxi towards Bergen Luftvahn. He spoke fluent Urdu and from his English accent
(which was Jafferesque) I thought he is from Sudan. But he was Somali. He told
me that it has become next to impossible to be in the war ridden homeland. He
'informed' me with an air of surety that India along with China was to replace
UK and US in their positions in the next ten years. I did not contradict, I
wanted to get a decent fare end of the trip! But let no one replace those
positions and let people think over what the state entities are becoming
everywhere. And then, I got a phone call and that too from a Norwegian mobile
number...early in the morn (?). This was a driver from Norges Taxi. He told me
that his trip has been stolen by the Somali! Then Gaddil asked my name again
and told in his broken English that he got me wrong. Earlier I got a Norwegian
SMS, ran downstairs and found Gaddil all set to take 'Mathieu' to airport. And
presently the guy reversed his taxi. Now I was worried as to what he was up to
and of course this was no body's fault.
Back at Fantoft, there was a couple from some place in South of Africa (by
their accent), talking to the Norges Taxi driver. My driver apologised and suggested
that the other fellow take his original passengers. In the end everything
worked fine and Gaddil, gladly, did not turn on his meter until we reached the
point we reversed from and started once again from 120 kroner.

After battering with the chilly Norwegian air for the past many days and
getting tired of this, my epithelium shook hands with sun and savoured the heat
at 35000 feet up from the ground. The fight passed over the Austrian Alps
towards the south east, passing over Slovenia and Macedonia, it descended a bit
more. The Greek mainland became visible and the tentacle like borders were
marked out against azure Mediterranean. Surely one of the best sights and even
better(er) was the sight of the green leaves down on the ground. This was no
temperate zone, and what makes Greece special is the fact that neither the
geography not its genealogy is quite temperate.
If it was George Kalliampos whom I met with in the flight back from Athens in
2004, this time the youngster I met on the flight was Stavros. He was warm and
answered all my small queries. But unlike with Kalliampos, we never got into a
conversation.
In the express bus, after a brief grey rendezvous with un-uniformed police (who
appear at airports and remind one of borders), a rather better demeanour(ed)
officer told me that the green needle leaved trees and the tooja-like smaller
shrubs were called Leflu and Peptu. Who Knows!
...........................
Achilles took twenty of us to the oracle at Delphi! This was the Greek guide
who turned out to be much more of a buddy than a guide by the evening. We
assembled near the door and in front of the fat dog that has been sleeping at
the doorstep overnight.
The coach was waiting for us in front of the Hadrian's
arch monument. We carried our lunch box along with us and soon we were on the
road North West from the dingy Makri Street we were put up at (named after the
mythical maakris that jumped all around the acropolis!).
Achilles started to give his very good overview on the history and mythology of
Delphi and this was long, serious and replete with too many names one can
seldom recall. We passed the site of the battle of Marathon between Persians
and Athenians (the result of which was prophesied by the Oracle and the live
reporting was done by the runner who died right on the stop after the
announcement of Athenian victory and cutting the historical chord of Marathons
that were to follow).
Cypresses, Pine and Olives gave us the green beddings and
there were many fields on our was. The agriculture in some way was very much on
though Achilles did not quite know what was being done. Tractors, tillers ,
shepherds and sheep could be seen. On the wayside were many 'kurishukuttis'
which was in fact not what I thought them to be viz. Saints remembered. These
were memorials to those killed on the road.
Churches with domes were
everywhere, Greek Orthodoxy is an overt presence and identity, unlike the
covert Christian underpinnings of rest of 'secular' Europe.
The Delphic site has myths that go back long time and predate the twelve better
known gods led by Zeus, to Uranus and Gaia (earth goddess?). Then there was the
overwhelming presence of Apollo as against Dionysius at the Acropolis. The site
has been linked to Gaia. Apollo was crucial in giving a death blow to the
dreaded python (hence the name Pythian temple where the oracle sat). He did
this in a strange way. The Corinthian coast of course could be seen from
Parnassus Mountain on which the Delphic site rests. But to imagine the god
coming as a Dolphin (Dalphius give the place the name), jumping atop the 2400
metre Parnassus and arrowing the python to oblivion requires the help of
'Dionysian wine' to go in!!!
And as Achilles said Dionysius was not entirely absent either. In winters he
used to visit Delphi. One can for sure understand the need of wine and
joviality in the winter days.
By this time we has left the Athens Attica prefecture and mountains popped up
from the plains. There were many of them, some looked to be limestonish white
and others looked red. There were rocks that threateningly clung on to the
mountain slopes. We passes the town of Arachova. There was a panoramic view
from a point here. This is known as a winter resort, but I was so glad that it
was not this time.

Passing Arachova we went to modern Delphi, with residential spaces, small
streets and all the touristy preoccupations, but much less crowded. In fact
this was quite far away from the town. To talk of something a little aside, Athens
hosts almost a third of the population and waves of migration , especially
after Mustafa Kamal's retaliation to Greeks in 1920s and migrant construction
workers who came in during the 2004 Olympic Games. Outside Athens places are so
sparsely populated and some of the terrain looks like the places on the way to Andhra
Pradesh or Tamil Nadu with houses resembling some of the sober ones from
Kerala.
There were two freshwater lakes, one at Marathon and another further
north that supplied all the water needs of the city. In fact the place looks
quite dry and does not have the kind of water resources we have. But the sparse
population where these water bodies are constituted leaves them much less
depleted or polluted unlike our good rivers.
We were first into the museum that was to close around three. Rainclouds loomed
over the mountains and by the time we were getting in it rained but with a nice
scent of the Mediterranean soil. Museums always tire me out but there were a
couple of things that needs to be mentioned. Some of the decorative motifs
taken from the site of excavation had eastern like origins and there was a
Bronze statue that was to give evidence for the presence of the metal ...least
of the this metal was available as they were melted for their value.
................
Another major aspect that I noticed about the excavations, from the museum, was
that the majority of these took place in the latter half of 1800s and a lot of
them by the French. The reconstructions on the ground and the kind of narrative
continuities that gets presented probably needs to be seen politically as well.
But nevertheless the sights remain awe inspiring, though their designations as
the roots of ‘European civilisation’ are surely overdrawn.

Rain did not give us any space so far. We walked towards the coach from the
museum and distributed the turkey sandwiches between us and waited for the rain
to abate. Water streamed down the roadsides just like the way we are familiar
back home. When Zeus reduced the rain to a drizzle we started to trek up the
way to the sites in Delphi. Stones were strewn all over; some of them
undoubtedly got carved out of the terrain. We were in fact entering the ancient
path from midway. The temple of Athena Pronaia (that which comes before) was
down south east and we were to go here only later.
Thus we passed the several
treasuries that talk about the cosmology the Delphic temple of Apollo
represented. The temple of Pythian Apollo from where the Oracles operated was
supported by an order called Amphicthioni which means an agreement between the
city states (the formations of which took effect in the mainland ever since the
Mycenean civilisation that preceded Hellenic one).
Amphictioni, even when it
got short circuited to the UN, was of course quite the kind. Even the 'Greeks'
were yet to happen. The only groups that were there was a tribe called Hellenic
from Thessaly. The Amphictioni included others like Siphinians, Argines,
Spartans, Phoenicians and may be even the long time rivals of Athenians, the
Persians. War always added on to the treasuries and Delphi grew no matter what
(probably more like how the oil price grows through wars- but yes with a
different intermeshing cosmology).
With the Romans Delphic oracle became much more of an individuated presence and
the Christians considered this entire Pagan. But the Greek Christian order was
never entirely disjoint from what there was, they were more hybrid formations.
Passing the treasury we came to the altar for Apollo made of black marble.
This
looked conspicuously distinct from the whitish structures all around.
Sacrifices were said to be made here after people got themselves cleansed at
the Kastilian spring. The entrance to what was once the spring was closed at
present because of falling rocks. The whole region is a seismic zone. Unlike
Acropolis much of the place were hidden in rubbles late into the ADs which
probably explains why the place was co-opted by Venetians or Turks as they did
in Acropolis.
Down from the sloped, standing on the slippery pathways we saw the valleys of Olives
and the Temple of Athena with its Tolos structure keeping a distinct profile.
Now we were at the much known theatre of Dionysius, the wine god proving his
presence, in Apollonian terrain. 50,000 people once got seated here to watch
the performances. At present only twenty rows of the semicircular theatre
remain.
The temple of Apollo becomes more visible from here and it is said that
the oracle was under a hallucinogenic trance when she sat here. The later day
'rational' explanations of vapour from fault lines by Dutch geographer
does not quite convey as wholesome a picture as the once buries Python exuding
fumes...
time getting over...in next mail
.....................
On the way down the slopes tracing back the points from the stadium of Pythian
games, through the rubbles atop the Dionysian theatre and the altar of Apollo,
to the treasuries and back to the bus (the rain that Zeus put to stop has
resumed); a conversation broke out between some Americans and Australians in
the group and Achilles. This was on the stray dogs of Greece. They felt this
strange and were obviously worried about 'safety'.
Achilles said that the dogs
have never been a problem. In fact at many points people has randomly kept
vessels full of water from which dogs and much more numerous cats drank from. I
speculated that most towns in the world would have had these creatures some
years back though a cleansing happened in many modern cities. This was not
totally unrelated to securitisation and also many 'unwanted elements' among the
felines and canines.
Then Achilles told us about a very interesting etymology. This was about the
Cynics of Hellenic towns that did everything out of the order. And the word
cynic comes from the Greek word for dog. Yes, the dogs for them are supposed to
be
wanderers. That is the way dogs
should be. Being on tethers, being under care and then getting mercy killed
(Norway the former category and Australia and UK the later ones) were abnormal.
I liked the take. Dogs are not only doggish but also cynical
Because of the rain there was some hesitation as to what to do, but then the
rain stopped abruptly. We took a short ride to the road right above the
Athenian temple that presently cut the once ancient panatheniac route. We
walked down, took a quick look at the Totos and the temple basements. The tolos
still remains a structure with mysterious reasons to be.
But the structure for
me looked to be a lot worked upon and a lot with too much recent imaginations.
It looked amazing nevertheless. What was much more interesting about Delphi (or
that matter the Acropolis) was the fact that they conveyed something about the
cosmology of the time, with each part informing the other.
We saw some falcons circling above us. They are the cousins of the eagles sent
once by Zeus to opposite directions (these birds are said to meet here at
Delphi and thus the place became the navel of the world).
Goats and sheep with shepherds were taking their way back home in front of the
fields and past the memorial crosses. In the ancient time, before the oracles,
the shepherds of this place is thought to have discovered the magic of the site
of Apollonian temple when they discovered that their goats behaved strange
after being there. So were the goats the first Oracles, before the old ladies'
(and some were younger) prophesies replaced the 'bleating prophesies' (that
probably left the pilgrims all the more confused!!)?
I slept for half an hour on our way back with the bazouki accompanied Greek
music. And Srijakutta, two of the songs were the ones that we played at the
radio station. It’s from a band called Odromos (meaning The Street). We stopped
at a food joint that served food that was neither here nor there type. The
place did not look as bad as a MacDonald’s. But I did not eat here. I waited
until we reached back.
Back at the Backpackers at Makri, I said goodnights to Leonhard, Aimie (Vietnamese
American), the others, and more importantly to Achilles who has been more than
a tour guide.
Many things he told us cannot be exactly remembered. But there
were a lot...
......................
I woke up rather late. But I did not want to miss the free Breakfast. I rushed
down and had joined the jam butter bread ceremony! After a quick shower I
walked towards Acropolis after five years.
This was a rather quick visit. I
took some photos and with the huge crowd (Sunday entry was free) I went up
there and after a gaze at Agora down below, descended the marble steps.
Back at the hotel, Ionnais, recommended some Greek dishes and suggested a
reasonable restaurant, some minutes of walk away, near the older town center of
Plaka.
When I was at a shop on the way Aimie (the Vietnamese girl who was with
the group last day) introduced me to her friend she has been eagerly waiting
for. Fung came from Sweden. If Aimie was from a family that migrated to US,
Fung was from another smaller group that went to Scandinavia. We decided that
we rather go to this restaurant together. In fact we wanted to change the near
to bad fooding-experience last night with four others.
Will continue...
..................
So Aimie, Fung and I were at Kafenio first. The rooms had an attic like
structure, and people more or less crowded in. We could clearly see the
Acropolis from the doorway, illuminated, and ever whiter against the dark sky.
We ordered for almost five different dishes. I had no doubt that we should,
especially since from the next day it will be a going back to the Scandinavian
diet for a couple more weeks.

Dacos, Kavourmas, Fava (dhal), Keftede Saltsa (meatballs with Sauce) and
Manitaria, decorated out table. Both of my travel mates have been once together
for their high school in Hawaii. Now Aimie has become a Dentist with a clinic
in Sacramento, California and Fung is a Tax Lawyer based in Stockholm. As I
wrote before both their families has been through a long process of finding
space in the respective social milieus. For the Vietnamese of Aimie's parental
generation who went to US in the seventies, it was more of fulfilling what they
understood to be 'the American Dream'. She told us that her dad remains
overstrained even now. With real-estate and novel business plans in an
uncertain economic environment, Aimie seemed a bit worried about him. Fung's
family in Sweden were not into such strains. An 'over smart' Greek kid came
barging on to us when we were getting out of Kafenio after more than an hour.
He followed us and stayed at the door steps with karate actions.
We walked further down the smaller alleys to Plaka and then Aimie showed us the
Orthodox Church she attended the Sunday service at. This was very much a
Byzantine church.
Iconography is very prominent in such churches and she (who
has a Catholic background) told us that people did totally novel things inside.
They conversed with individual icons, did not have the unanimity she found in a
Catholic order, and were doing the cross, with the fourth point at the center
of their chest (rather than one of the shoulder points). The priests with long
beards and black tunics, of course looked theatrical for her (this is rather
familiar to people of Kerala).
We walked all the way to the parliament square and then had the next barge into
Vrittoes. Now this was what should be called a riot of colours with
multicoloured bottles going all the way up the shelves, some with an antique
look and wooden drums on another side.
A German guy who has been living in the Cretan
islands (where the oldest Minoan civilisation once thrived) started a
conversation with us. He was very helpful for Aimie and Fung who was to be here
for a couple more days with plans to be made. Afterwards they plan to move to
Istanbul (one of the best logical follow ups, to me).
We started with Masticha (which has the taste of a local herb with some
sweetness) and tried out drinks with Melon, Watermelon, and Lemonaid flavour.
There was a Greek man who was drunk and drowned and others who told that Fung
and Aimie were some of the most exotic people around at that moment. They were
not interruptive for us, but rather a lot open about what they felt and Greeks
do get into any kind of conversations out of the blue.
Both of them told me that our family is always welcome at their respective
places. One the square ahead some young boys were playing tape recorders and
performing break dances. Two dogs started following us all the way through the
small alleys.
We were worried about their possible pack behaviour and also
wanted to know whether they are keen on us as such. So we took small turn all
the time. They kept smart distances and followed our steps! They barked at the
vehicles and people who passed near to us. It looked phenomenally strange. And
adding on to the magical realism of it (Aimie said so because we were talking
of the magical realism outsiders found in Latin America, some minutes before)
with the reality of the Dogs following and at times leading the footsteps and
amazingly leaving us right at the last turn towards Makri. They gazed at us for
a moment and ran away, tracing the road back!!!
It was almost 1:00 am by the time we were back. We said good night and agreed
to meet next day at Breakfast before I leave.
So another Greek sojourn was coming to an end. I am now sure that this is the
only place I probably have a warm heart for all the time, apart from home.
May be there is more to write. I will do that....
...............
Aimie and Fung were getting ready to go for a 'walking tour' from Backpackers.
And I was glad to know that it was Achilles who was guiding them this time as
well. I could say Adieu to the three of them and then there was an Argentinean roommate
who had my name but in another version, Mathias.
I went along with the former three up to the Temple of Olympian Zeus and from
there they continued with Athenian stories. On my way back I saw police cars
parked all over. A Madagascar shopkeeper told me that there is going to be a
strike and the buses won't probably run! The enquired with the police and they
did not have any clear answer either. Ionnais later told me that this was not exactly
a strike though the Greek economy has been giving rise to many strikes off
late.
This was the memorial demonstration of the student radical from Athens
Polytechnic who was killed in the riots thirty years back (The movement brought
down the right wing dictatorship).
Nevertheless Ionnais did caution me and suggested the Metro. I met Gabrielle
from Mexico who arrived last day. We were supposed to go out and have food
together. But we are yet to meet each other (after I went out for a phone call
and Gabrielle for a coffee).
I have to get my bags ready now and step into a metro or express, on my way out
from the Hellenic...back into the cold Nordic
...................
I have been in some places on different stretches of time. The longest stretch,
of course was in Norway. I loved the shorter times in Barcelona or Rome, where
I have also met some very good people. But the only place for which I had tears
for when I left was Greece. That was in two thousand four and in the same days
of December I was coming back to Bergen.
This time I did not cry. I can be home after two weeks. This took the tears
away. But the air of the Aegean does leave an imprint.
The express bus drove past the Kiffissa Avenue to the outskirts of Athens with
high rises and then plains of Olives. This was followed by Gypsy camps. As I
believed, the less magical, and more dull, outskirts towards airport with
bigger roads that look similar to any big road, were not the factory zones.
Greece does not have heavy industry. They were workshops or godowns.
On the road sides were many blank ad-boards (Just the way we saw blank-ad
boards in Kerala sometime back). The only full board was something that said
'Casino848.com' and that could be seen on intervals. They were very old. The so
called 'economic crisis', as many told me affected Greeks. The state that had
become ever more dependent of service sector had to depend on the groups they
were into, the EU. Public assets were getting sold off each day to cure the
sickness, and people were getting ever more sick. They took to the streets
several times. The Greeks express dissent. Today was such a day, tomorrow is
going to be a strike.
It is possible that the big players in the EU, the Germanies, the
Frances...etc. will get Greeks more on their lines. In some years the state
will be completely off for people. They will get angry first and then turn
themselves into some of the Gypsies I saw in the tents. They will become the
new Romanian and Polish migrants for Europe.
Many more years back all that got represented as Greece was needed as 'history'
for every nook and cranny of what became Europe. The French, Germans, Swedish,
Norwegians, and Dutch traced their fathers back to mount Olympus and claimed to
have drunk the milk of the wolf of Rome. They needed this. It has been, above
all, part of one of the biggest political narratives.
Now, they need the Greeks once again, perhaps to add some competition and cut
the labour costs. From the 2004 Olympics the Greeks have been once again held
in thrall and the present crisis is selling them off...I feel so, I do not
exactly know, but I do not want that to happen here...
...because this has been the only place away from my homeland about which I can
say 'being there...'
Ummmmmmmmma
Mon Chaacha Maathu Appa